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"The
southern Appalachians are the highest and most rugged in the
entire chain that reaches from Georgia to Maine.
The
highest peak on the Appalachian trail is Clingmans Dome, in
the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.
The
Great Smoky Mountains have more species of trees than all of
Europe. Like most trails in the Appalachian, there are painted
white “blazes” on trees or rocks and are visible enough to
make it easier on the hiker to find their way. The terrain can
be very steep at times and the trails get narrow, you may
climb over rocks or walk through a condensed forest, every day
is a new interpretation
of nature.
This
was my first time visiting the Smoky Mountains and my hike was
at the end of the season, in August. Each mountain peak, each
drop of sweat, each moment of inspiration, each knob I pass
through, and each grassy bald, will always be with me." |
Quiet and solitude are often the topics of mans communion with nature.
To be a part of the still boom of the world, during my last excursion, I held this frame of
mind. I longed for silence to breach my thoughts, even if it was only to be for a few days, but the wild has its own way of teaching. This was to be my most humbling
lesson to date.
The trip lasted five days in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park by way of New
Found gap. (NFG) is the perfect trail to detach yourself from the greater
accomplishments of man. For the first few miles I could hear the combustion engines
and the
chattering of many languages. Letting go is easy for the novice walker, because
societies’
boisterous sound is with you. The first stretch of leg was to Mt. Collins shelter,
4.5 miles,
during which I was accompanied by beech and spruce forest. After 1.7 miles,
Indian gap
opened herself to me, she let me get my first look at her masterpiece –
Clingmans dome.
The mountain stands at 6,643 feet and is the highest point of the A.T. This was where I
paused to praise her, respect for whom I would conquer tomorrow.
Ascending the Tennessee side, there was a quick turn left and I was gracing the state
line
ridge for the remainder of the days hike. I reached the gentle opening that held my
shelter
for the night, I rested and took in the beauty that surrounded me.
The next morning, as I awoke, I heard the sweet parade of birds outside. Nothing puts
you in a better mood than being kissed by the cold, crisp mountain air. So to her, I bid
good morning.
This day I will summit four times, so an early start was essential. After some protein
bars
and vitamin C drinks, I hiked 0.5 miles to reach Mt. Collins peak. I kept mind to
foot until Clingmans, where the descent was steep and often quite narrow. As I approach
her base, she towers over me. Anxiety awakens me to her size. She embellished me
with the
rare mountain cranberries at her top. Her peak is where I got a true perspective
of the land
which surrounded me, the mass that is this mountain chain. I couldn’t
conceive of my
importance here, for there was none. The World did not need me, it was I
that was in need.
As I sat under the cover of red spruce trees, a group of four burly young men passed by
into the woods, leaving only dust and fading noise behind them. The pace they embraced
was of excitement, not one of peace. I could only hope we would not share the same
destination, but Silers bald was both our desire. When I got there, they were well
involved with a party, with ball gloves, steak, whiskey, a good fire, and lots of jokes to
tell. But they had no idea of the quiet I was searching for. I had walked eight miles that
day, so sleep was my companion and we shared not a word.
The next day I arose lazily as I got acquainted with the sunlight again. The boys were
gone, it seemed the whiskey did not faze them as Clingmans did I. Only heaven could
uderstand the smile on my face at they’re absence. I ate light because it was only 5.5
miles to Derricks knob. I walked with the Universe, and meditated on the beauty that
only gods could conceive. Wildflowers laid out the path before me, I accepted it without
heedless thought. My walk lasted until day’s end, I arrived at camp late. There was
a few minutes of light left for me to set up my bedding, when I heard voices coming from
the spring below. I couldn’t believe it, the boys from last night walked up. We say our
hellos and I continue as privately as possible. As the moon rose to the farthest reaches
of my mind, I questioned the gods about my task at hand.
After talking to the boys, I realized we were to be sharing the mountains together by
night. We had acquired the same shelters, so I accepted my fate as I lay to rest for the
night.
Morning came early as I arose from a delightful slumber, the rain gave me a gentle beat
to start my day. I packed quietly and waited for a gap in the weather before heading out.
The next section of the trail held in its grasp Thunderhead, Rocky Top, and Devils Tater
Patch; none of which invited, but yet were breathtaking.
From the start, sugar maples set about my path, their leaves beginning to fall, lulling in
God’s country. I felt as a monk in an abbey.
This area was very strenuous and rewarding, after hours of hiking, I gazed upon the
rhododendron and laurels that greeted me at the summit of Thunderhead.
The wind and fog seemed to say, “ Enter the temple and rest, for your trial is over,”
so I found a grassy knob and lay my head to rest. The pain was without suffering, my
existence could be no more pleased.
After my short break, I stumbled to Rocky Top, the stone peak that inspired men,
songs, and my soul. I received a view that only birds could be used to. I could see
Fontana Lake nestled in the midst of the mountains. Oh, to have a home as she has! The comfort I felt
was from childhood, sitting on my grandfathers lap, listening to his stories. No man was
as great as he, and no feeling as great as this.
After a long pause, I continue for the next five miles, with joy and comfort in my heart.
I reached the switchbacks of Locust knob, they were very exhausting. I raced through
Devils Tater Patch as if it were a long, dusty, wagon trail and found Mollies shelter
waiting to take me in. I sat atop the mountain, and rejoiced in the glory of the world. I
ate and waited for my new friends, and for nightfall to settle in.
As night entered the shelter, the boys arrived and we talked about our lives - who we
were outside these hills. It occurred to me that if we had met anywhere else, our politics
could have brought us to blows. Tonight, whiskey kept us tight.
Nature, it seems, has a way of equaling mankind, our newly established community
laughed and played cards until morning.
The next day as I walked the remainder of the trail, an awakening occurred. I realized it
was not quiet or solitude I needed, but to experience true nature. And even though man
tries to separate himself with concrete paths and high-rise buildings, he is nature in its
truest form. As I enter the woods next time, I will look for falling leaves, animals foraging, and man to delight my thoughts. On this hike, I realized the truth of nature. The universe – as one.

Copyright (c) 2002 by Joseph
Bryan Hensley All rights reserved. |